Tuesday 30 November 2010

Perfumes on trial: The truth about our scent industry By ASHLEY PEARSON























We all have our favourite. Jennifer Aniston loves Prada, Kate Bosworth is a fan of Jo Malone Vintage, and Claudia Schiffer favours anything with Tuberose.
Cameron Diaz? She prefers Brown Thomas's Clean, and Sienna Miller adores the "fresh laundry" allure of DKNY.
Celebrities such as Kate Moss, Jordan, Sarah Jessica Parker, Britney Spears and Beyonce have created their own best-sellers - and beauty entrepreneur Jennifer Lopez has eight!

Yes, we're talking scents. Smelling good is big business - the perfume industry brings in a staggering £16 billion a year. Yet there's a lot this highly profitable and rather secretive industry would rather you didn't know.
Consider the price of the perfume. The liquid in the bottle represents only 3 per cent of the total cost of producing it.
The other 97 per cent goes to marketing, packaging and advertising. And the selling price allows for a 95 per cent profit margin. There's a lot of money to be made in making the rest of us smell better.
Science is partly to blame. Today, your favourite scents are not coming to you from the garden, but rather straight from a laboratory - they are created from synthetic molecules, not from flowers.
Discovered in 1876, the use of synthetic scents revolutionised the world of perfumery. Suddenly, scents lingered longer and could be produced in large quantities. The creative possibilities increased dramatically and at a fraction of the cost of the real thing.
It takes 750kg of jasmine flowers to create 1kg of essential oil. In France, jasmine blooms only from August to October, and must be picked by hand during the few hours of the day that the petals are open.
The rose doesn't make life any easier. It must be picked by hand, flower by flower, at sunrise.

When a kilo of rose absolute can cost up to £4,000 and its synthetic equivalent costs only £400, it's not hard to see why the perfume industry has embraced synthetic scents.
And no one's embraced them more than celebrities. Actress Sarah Jessica Parker has reputedly made more than £2 million from her perfume Lovely, while Jennifer Lopez, who started the modern celebrity scent trend with the launch of her Glow perfume in 2003, has apparently made more than £25 million.
Perfume expert and author Chandler Burr says celebrity fragrances make little lasting impression, evaporating after a few hours, because of what they're made of.
"They use cheap ingredients to be more affordable and make more money."
Compared to a scent such as the fine classic Chanel No. 5, which can last up to 24 hours, today's celebrity fragrances are the perfume equivalent of a bargain fashion fix.
"They're like buying a cheap, fun dress for a season and then tossing it out," says Burr.
Seduced by big budget adverts and celebrity brand names, we often bring the pretty bottles home only to discover that while some really are "lovely", others stink.
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Experts say this is because as a perfume dries on your skin it releases a sequence of odours.
The lightest, head notes , appear during the first 15 minutes. These are followed by heart notes, and finally the base notes, which appear in the last 12 hours.
So what a scent smells like in the shop will differ after a day at the office.
Celebs aren't the only ones getting in on the act - for fashion houses it's a lucrative sideline.
In a year when Burberry clothing sales were down, its profits went up 17 per cent - due to perfume sales.
Designer Yves Saint Laurent once confessed that perfume made up 85.3 per cent of his house's revenues.
Meanwhile, glittering marketing campaigns and TV ads promise that we will become fatally alluring and utterly irresistible - if only we smelled just that little bit better.
And due to the financial importance of perfume advertising, our favourite glossy magazines never print anything remotely critical.
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Coco Chanel once said that it was the height of arrogance for a woman to think that she smelled good enough to go out without perfume - so if you want to make the right choice, what's a girl to do?
A new book from the States will help. Not published in the UK until September, it's already being praised by beauty insiders from Tokyo to London.
Perfumes: The Guide, written by expert "noses" Luca Turin and Tania Sanchez, is making big waves in the world of scent.
A professional biophysicist and perfume critic, respectively, the two are brutally frank.
They review and rate more than 1,200 perfumes, offering expert advice.
Some get good marks, such as Shalimar, Joy and Jo Malone's Lime Basil and Mandarin, while others get rather damning criticism. 212, from Carolina Herrera, for example, is "like getting lemon juice in a paper cut".
Amarige, from Givenchy: "If you are reading this because it is your darling fragrance, please wear it at home exclusively, and tape the windows shut."
Paris Hilton's Heiress is "a hilariously vile 50/50 mix of cheap shampoo and canned peaches". Yes, brutally frank.

Lifestyle has organised its own smell test, analysing the top 50 best-selling scents across the UK this year, according to Perfume Shop sales.
Our panel of experts consists of celebrity perfumer and celebrated nose Roja Dova; world-renowned scent specialist and Brand Sense agency founder Simon Harrop, and Julia Bolsom, a certified nose and Perfume Shop marketing director who has worked on the launches of more than 500 fragrances.
And our experts agree that this is an area in which we need help. "It can be very confusing going up to a department store counter," says Julia, "and you are often sold the wrong thing. You're buying into an aspiration or a brand but not necessarily what smells the best on you."
Roja agrees. "Studies show that people will say that a particular perfume is one of their favourites, but in a blind test they hate it.
"The trouble is that most people buy scent for their ego, after seeing an image in an advert and wanting to identify themselves in a certain way.
"But when the buzz has gone from the purchase the emotional part of their brain takes over and they find they don't like it. You should buy what smells good to you, regardless of anything else."
"It's an important decision," Simon adds. "What perfume you wear is the equivalent of a person expressing themselves with a punk hair-do. Consciously or not, we are reflecting our personality in the scent that we choose.
"Research indicates that different scents communicate different things to those around you. If you want to be perceived as upbeat and bubbly wear something that smells of citrus. If you are a serious lawyer, go for sandalwood.
"Smell is the sense most closely tied to emotion; people often have powerful responses to specific odours. What you choose will have an effect on you and those around you."

Storyboard for TV coursework use

How to sell perfume online: Print N Sniff!?

It must be puzzling, working for a perfume company and trying to figure out how to market it to internet users. Brazilian company Kaiak found the most amazing solution to show people just how good (I'm presuming) their cologne is.

The ad agency working with Kaiak teamed up with 15 internet cafes across Brazil, installing mini-printers in the sides of the monitors. When the internet surfers clicked on an ad banner promising that the "best selling men's fragrance in the country just changed. Want to try it? Click this banner. IT'S SCENTED," a little cardboard perfume tester actually printed out of the monitor in front of them, with a peeled-off area containing the fragrance.

As you can imagine, the online campaign was a resounding success. The click-through rate on the banner ads was 43 times higher than the worldwide average, and 10,000 of the perfume testers were distributed through people's computer monitors in just one weekend.

Some creative Juicy Couture advertising!







Spot the fake!




Further interesting adverts for analysis
















Further interesting adverts for analysis
















Two different perfumes using similar compositions




Jean Paul Gaultier- a range of campaigns
















Similar compositions- but compare representation?




Perfume advertising- sex sells




Three different perfumes- using the same composition







Celebrity Perfumes- which campaign do you think is the most effective?











Miss Dior Advertising Campaign







Perfume pour loo























A nice play on the classic perfume beautiful people ads. Here we see the toilet cleaning product, Ambi Pur, which as been relaunched in the Australian market featuring the hospital grade disinfectant with fragrance that could pass for an attractive perfume.

Gwen Stefani Harajuku perfume runs mobile campaign

To promote Gwen Stefani's new Harajuku Lovers perfumes, fragrance company Coty launched a marketing campaign that includes a mobile Web site.

The fragrance giant teamed up with integrated advertising agency Syrup to create a new online and mobile concept designed to cut through the highly saturated and celebrity-driven fragrance market. Rather than focus on Stefani's image and celebrity for an online campaign, Syrup instead created an interactive Web site accessible via PC or mobile phone.

"Because Harajuku Lovers' young audience is tech-savvy and cell-phone ready, we knew that mobile was going to be a major part of that campaign," said Rob Holzer, CEO of Syrup, LBi Group, New York.


"We asked ourselves what we could do to enhance the experience and take the Web experience to the mobile platform, which is actually a fairly straightforward process to implement, and it proved really successful," he said.

The target demographic of the campaign was teen/young-adult females ages 12-24.

The soft launch was in August, but the campaign hit its full stride at the beginning of September. There was some TV advertising.

Laird+Partners worked on the traditional print-ad campaign, where there was a call to action pushing consumers to the Web site.

SnapNow by evryx technology was another partner in the mobile campaign.

In the print ads there was a description of the SnapNow mobile elements, pushing people to take a picture of a Harajuku Lovers ad via their camera phone and email it in to get a link to the specialized mobile site.

The mobile site lets consumers download ringtones, take a quiz, download wallpapers and request a free sample of the Harajuku Lovers Fragrance.

The mobile site is optimized for Apple's iPhone, WebKit-based browsers including Nokia and Opera, Symbian, T-Mobile's Sidekick, Treo and Research In Motion's BlackBerry.

Anyone with a handset that has a camera and a HTML Web browser can participate.

In September the partners received 800 snaps a day, and received more than 5,200 snaps by Sept. 10.

As of Oct. 16, consumers had downloaded more than 24,000 ringtones and sent in more than 60,000 requests for a free sample of the fragrance.

"Everyone was really happy with the results of the campaign, as far as traffic and time spent on the Web site and the use of the mobile apps," Mr. Holzer said. "The mobile initiatives were more than just an afterthought.

"We wanted to make mobile a featured part of the campaign and it's proven to be really successful, especially with this audience," he said.

The site is designed to showcase the Harajuku girl's attitude of individualism by inspiring those visiting the site to express themselves creatively and individually.

A Harajuku is a young Japanese girl known for creating extremely unique and individualized fashion styles.

Ms. Stefani, intrigued by this distinct culture and style, made it the focal point of her clothing and fragrance line.

In keeping with the spirit of Ms. Stefani's vision, the Web site features an animated "G" and her Harajuku Girl posse who encourage fans to record, upload and share videos of themselves singing Karaoke to the Stefani hit "Harajuku Girls."

The videos are then instantly shared and made visible to everyone visiting the Web site, creating a viral movement that has helped spread news of the new fragrance online.

Syrup created the idea of Karaoke, letting consumers tap into their own Harajuku style and show it off to their friends.

Coty is a $3 billion fragrance company based in France.

Its fragrance brands include Calvin Klein, Chloé, Jennifer Lopez, Joop, Kenneth Cole, Marc Jacobs, Nautica, Sarah Jessica Parker, Vera Wang, Vivienne Westwood, Shania Twain, Miss Sixty, mary-kateandashley, Kylie Minogue, Esprit, Isabella Rosellini, Esprit, Desperate Housewives, David and Victoria Beckham, Celine Dion, Astor and Aspen, as well as Adidas' line of fragrances.

The Web site also lets users rate and comment on the videos, download wallpapers and display the videos on social networking pages.

At the intersection of the digital world, advertising and brand entertainment, Syrup is an international communications agency.

Syrup is a part of the LBi Group, a full-service digital marketing agency network.

The company's mission is to create momentum and cultural relevance for brands through advertising, branding, digital marketing, experience design, integrated communications, strategy and viral storytelling.

Its clients include GE, Hearst Media, L'Oréal, Issey Miyake, Coty Fragrances, DOW and Viacom.


"Mobile is a part of young people's lives, it's the way they socialize, and we wanted to reach the place where kids are used to interacting," Mr. Holzer said. "Young people are much more comfortable with mobile applications, and since they use mobile as a device in their everyday life, we wanted to integrate it where it makes sense.

"We wanted them to see the interactive element and make print ads more than visiting a URL," he said. "We wanted them to be able to interact and go deeper through the mobile experience."

HEAT Beyonce's First Fragrance - FULL COMMERCIAL


A ’sexually provocative’ perfume advert featuring popstar Beyoncé Knowles has been criticised by the Advertising Standards Authority (ASA) after it received a number of complaints from the public that the commercial was running during the day when young children might be watching TV.

The advertisement for ‘Beyoncé Heat’ was commissioned by perfume company Coty UK and depicts the former Destiny’s Child singer taking a steamy bath before seductively strutting around in a revealing red dress to the song Fever.

The ASA described the commercial as ’sexually provocative’ and ‘unsuitable to be seen by young children’.

It is understood that the advert had already been classified as restricted by Clearcast, a body that vets advertisements on British television, and should therefore not have been aired close to children’s television programmes.

Coty defended the advert, saying it was ‘intended to reflect the singer Beyoncé’s personal ’sexy chic’ style’. Adding that it was ’stylised and in keeping with other ads in the genre’ and not ‘overtly graphic or explicitly sexual and at no point was Beyoncé naked.’

The Advertising Standards Authority disagreed and have advised that from now on the commercial should not be allowed to run during the day and can only be aired after 7.30pm … just in time for Corrie.

The ASA concluded ‘Beyoncé’s body movements and the camera’s prolonged focus on shots of her dress slipping away to partially expose her breasts created a sexually provocative ad that was unsuitable to be seen by young children,’

Adding: ‘We considered that the ad should not have been shown before 7.30pm due to the sexually provocative nature of the imagery'.

The evolution of Shalimar by Guerlain



Here is shown the evolution of a perfume advertisement. A perfume is a product which can live for years. People are used to a fragrance and need to find it when they want. So even if the bottle of the perfume can not change, its advertisement can make its image change. Therefore, ads are essential in the life of a product. The advertising campaign has to consider the evolution of the trend but also the will of the brand for its product. We can take the example of Shalimar by Guerlain. As you can see on this picture, the ad from 1984 is different as a current one. The picture are more and more net. Women faces have a bigger place in current ads. And the body is more and more revealed.

Calvin Klein's Obsession campaign


The above Kate Moss advertising uses sex, a very familiar stimuli in marketing campaigns, to elicit a conditioned response. The latter is, according to the theory of classical conditioning, an involuntary response. Even though most males seeing the advertisement, in this case for Obsession, mentally are unlikely to believe that merely using Obsession will make them more desirable to attractive members of the opposite sex, the goal of Calvin Klein’s marketing staff is to convince consumers subconsciously that purchasing Obsession will lead to increased success on the market of love. Undoubtedly, the market is saturated with fragrances that use explicit sexuality as a marketing tool, often conveyed by suggestive advertising, dark bottles and brand names referring openly to sex. In addition to Calvin Klein’s Obsession, Allure and Passion are other product names known to most consumers. It is generally believed that a company has to play on sex to successfully introduce a new fragrance on the market, but more products than just CKOne has proved this theory wrong.

Monday 15 November 2010

Cross Media Analysis Example: Soap Opera-

Compare the impact and effectiveness of two promotional methods used by the docu-soap The Only Way is Essex.

The campaign is promoting the new ‘living soap’ The Only Way is Essex, a 10 week programme that will be using real life characters rather than actors in its exaggerated narratives.

The audience being targeted appears to be older teens and young adults, due to its portrayal of younger adult characters and its scheduling at 10pm after the watershed- which suggests its unsuitability for a younger teenage audience.

The two media platforms that have been utilised in this campaign are a teaser trailer and a billboard poster which introduce the viewer to some of the characters in the new show. The characters are represented as living a ‘glamorous’ lifestyle by the use of the pink limousine in the establishing shot of the teaser trailer and the silver sparkly nameplate used in the billboard poster. In addition the soaps representation of being a ‘fake’ is supported by the ‘mock tudor’ mansion in the establishing shot and the orange fake tan, hair and nail extensions supported by many of the characters. This representation is a stereotypical view of the inhabitants of ‘Essex’, but also supports the shows production values in that the situations are faked yet the characters are real. This celebrity lifestyle and unusual production suggests great entertainment value for a range of audiences keen to find out what else the programme has to offer, and how it will all work out.

Character archetypes, a key genre characteristic of soap opera are portrayed in both products. In the trailer the first character of ‘Porchia’ is introduced- she is clearly ‘The Blonde Bimbo’, her blonde hair a dominant in the shot, along with the heavy eye makeup, and the girly expression. This representation is further supported by the use of the curvy, girly typography of her name- which in turn connotes a fast, beautiful car- made to be looked at and ‘ridden’. These subtle sexual representations as women as sexual objects is continued throughout the trailer. This would clearly appeal to and entertain a male target audience.

Similarly the billboard poster supports common gender stereotypes, the women showing a lot of flesh, one twirling her long blonde hair in a seductive manner, and the men in strong poses with serious expressions, representing masculinity, strength and power.

In soap operas realism would be constructed in a variety of ways in order to make the audience believe what they see on the screen. These are constructed by the use of diegetic sound- clearly the music is playing in the glamorous urban bar that is the setting for the trailer. However the trailer breaks many of these genre codes, utilising extreme close ups to expose representations and canted angles to indicate the movement and party atmosphere. High angles are also used which gives the feeling of a ‘Reality TV show. This promotes that this programme is so much more than a soap opera, highlights the fact that this are real people, should have more plausible plotlines that the audience can identify with and also promotes that the audience will have an element of interaction with and control over the characters lives.

Further genre clues are provided in the introduction to many characters, all of which are represented independently. This number of characters, 5 in the billboard poster, and 8 in the trailer indicates that there will be multi stranded narratives, but that all characters frequent the same settings and this adds a sense of community. In this case the community is ‘Essex’- shown numerous times: on the trailers screen ident in the nameplate, as large sparkly letters in the poster as well as during the trailer on the pants of a girl- adding further sexual stereotypes of Essex women as objects to look at.

The symbolism of glamour, fashion such as the accessories shown in the mise en scene are in the colours of silver and gold signifying expense, and a focus on looks represents that young Essex men and women believe image is more important than substance. This view is also supported by the dialogue used in the trailer, where one character declares that they live “LA lifestyles”, however the audience are appealed by the realism portrayed by the additional comment that the weather in Essex “is a little bit muggy”. This juxtaposition of how Essex is represented encourages the viewer to escape into and be entertained by how they live these glamorous, expensive lifestyles in dismal Essex.

In order to tune in the viewer is given scheduling information on the screen ident at the end of the trailer. In addition further cross media promotion is offered in the form of the webpage, so that the viewer can discover more information and ultimately be further persuaded to watch the show. On the billboard scheduling information is not provided but the broadcaster logo of ITV 2 is shown, as it was on the trailer so that the viewer knows where to look for the scheduling information. The final shot of the trailer is the familiar green ITV 2 screen with the tagline ‘You know you want to’ which similarly appears on the billboard. The use of second person directly addresses the viewer, and commands that they will tune in.

The promotional products are effective in introducing the new programme, and if successful will draw an audience to the commercial channel, which in turn would enable further programmes to be made as the broadcaster will be able to sell advertising space around the programme. Despite the glamorous lifestyle represented in these products the production budget was probably quite low. The programme has clearly been funded by sponsorship, shown throughout the trailer as Cymlex cold sore relief and the use of real people as actors would probably be less expensive than using well known stars.

The unique selling point of the campaign is the idea that this is something new- real people in traditional soap plotlines, with the added appeal of audience interaction like that found in reality TV shows.

Thursday 4 November 2010

My Blog List: Year 11 Double

  • iPhone app Calander - Calander View for iPhone app Second Calander view for iPhone app Final Calander view for iPhone app Final Calander view with colour correction for iPhone
    12 years ago
  • Articles; Relevant To My Target Audiences' Issues - *So far i have found an article and a blog which are relevant to the issues of my target audience. * *The first, a BBC magazine article, talks about the is...
    12 years ago
  • - I have a logo for 1 step 21. I still need to name and come up with an identity for my campaign.
    12 years ago
  • Similar Campaigns! - CALM - Campaign agaisnt living miserably: The Calm Zone is a website that was set up in response to the high suicide rate among young men, currently the big...
    12 years ago
  • Billboard Posters - My Partner Chloe researched the Codes and Conventions of Billboard Posters for our project. She found the following Codes and Conventions following the ana...
    12 years ago
  • The 'Lunch Bunch' - In order to appeal to kids and make them enjoy learning about good food, which will in turn appeal to the parents, i have chosen to create several characte...
    12 years ago
  • New Decision.. - Today we had a discussion as a group and decided that it would be easier to split up into smaller groups/individuals as working in a group of 4 was making...
    12 years ago

My Blog List: Year 10 Media


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